陈克宇

尋找JACK之旅V – 台灣!對話陳克宇

“你的經歷是怎樣的?你對’皮’這個素材的認知是什麼?”
KO-YU:我有五年的時間在從事皮革教學,在巴黎實習過兩年。皮革不是台灣原生有的素材,所以我融合了許多台灣本土的元素,加上我在國外的生活美學,塑造出新的創作風格。我們每個人身上或者家裡都有皮件的東西,那怎麼把這個素材變成一個人的價值所在,會陪著他使用很久。我在教學的過程中,發現很多人對皮革有很多的想像,基本上是皮包或者小型皮製物件。其實皮革可以運用的範圍很廣。這五年來,台灣人對皮革的認知有很大的進步。在亞洲區來說,日本對皮的認知是最成熟的。台灣人也會漸漸接受,正確使用皮革。我很開心,台灣人有這樣的共識和感情上的共融。

 

“為什麼對皮革這麼情有獨鍾?”
KO-YU:是很簡單的,皮革這個東西是有生命的,跟木頭一樣。儘管它們已經變成單一的素材,經過了再製,已經不是原本形體的一部分。但是天然皮革這種東西,經過了實用之後,會因為你的觸摸和你對它漸漸的熟悉,甚至你的溫度和汗,讓所有的皮件存留有屬於你的味道。塑膠或者布料,各種材料都有種種的好處。但是皮革,它跟著你,你可以改變它,它會去到很多地方,會改變,跟人一樣,到最後它就變成你了。

 

“第一件作品是什麼?”
KO-YU:18歲的時候開始做的,是一個打火機的套。當時覺得煤油打火機的殼比較生硬,就嘗試著用皮革把它包覆起來,當時覺得這個東西整個的形狀都改變了,更溫暖。我現在還留著。

 

“為什麼要做一個皮革‘講師’?”
KO-YU:我開始對這個身份感到非常陌生。我本來是一個設計師,我的設計要符合某一個族群和時代的需要,我是一個人在和一個物件對話。我希望把我的理念分享出去,不單單是群體只選購和使用產品,而是讓更多的人對於皮革這樣的素材和使用意義有更深的了解,甚至是有一種發展性,把這種知識傳授給原本不太清楚皮革,但想去了解的人,是我為什麼會選擇教學的原因。

 

“現在外面的訂製皮件服務那麼多,為什麼還需要自己親手去縫製?”
KO-YU:每一個人都會很想要或者得到適合自己的東西,當他們花了時間和心力,以及思考去完成一件東西的時候,比別人幫你設定好來得有意義多了。重點就是有花心思的熱忱。

 

“巴黎給你最大的改變是什麼?但你還是回到了台灣,為什麼?”
KO-YU:在巴黎的兩年,對於一個亞洲人來說衝擊頗大。很多人認為巴黎人很悠閒和浪漫,那是表面的。其實每一個人都知道自己應該屬於甚麼樣子,他們不會追求形式的東西,都只追求自己內心的價值。講到內心價值,牽扯的範圍是非常廣泛的,比如思考模式,看東西的方式,你的飲食和生活習慣,但那些都是特別的,不那麼追隨潮流。但我畢竟是在台灣這邊土地生長,我希望藉由我在國外學回來的東西,再加上我對本土文化的深層理解,創造出真正屬於我們台灣人自己的東西。

 

“你設計裡的台灣元素具體指的是什麼?”
KO-YU:我會去找尋很多台灣原住民傳統的布料或者竹編的素材,我對這些東西非常有興趣。台灣的傳統手工藝都很棒,但是可能製作的人並不知道該怎麼去轉化,我更願意把它轉換成一個非常實用,而每個人都願意去擁有的物件。台灣對我來說是“小而美”,在歷史上它承載了很多,但很有力量。

 

“對於剛開始對手工皮件感興趣但又有點疑惑自己能不能完成的人,你會怎麼說?”
KO-YU:很多人都覺得自己不是美術系的,或者手不夠靈活,無法去完成一件作品。我會問他們一個問題——你們想做一件甚麼樣的東西?大部分的答案都不會很誇張,一個錢包、零錢包或吊飾。其實我覺得這跟手靈活不靈活沒太大的關係,關鍵要是花心思和時間。而這個物件是不是符合你剛開始的想像?我覺得這個事情很有趣,很多人做出來的東西都不是那麼符合剛開始他們的想像,但是他們都很開心,因為這個過程帶給他們的,是別人想像不到的。擁有對一件事情的專注感,是這個事情的價值所在。

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