____Caleb&Joshua_Traditional

尋找 JACK 之旅 II – 香港!對話伍氏兄弟

伍氏兄弟:“廚房顧問”,Caleb 簡稱為 C,哥哥。

Joshua 簡稱為 J,弟弟。兩個人出生時間相差十分鐘。

去 Common Ground 拍攝的那天天氣不好,閃電夾著雷雨一翻折騰,所以在伍氏兄弟做好熱氣騰騰的 pancake 前,我們都無法抑制地感受那種只屬於 “回家了” 的暖流。那天的談話充滿了蛋香,糖漿的清甜和優質咖啡的濃烈,以致現在想起來,嘴邊仿佛都殘存著安慰和幸福的味道。

 

“你們是誰,‘雙胞胎廚房’ 是怎麼來的?”

 

C:我是 Caleb,我的弟弟叫 Joshua,我們稱自己為 “廚房顧問”,但是我們更願意說我們是幫助 “夢想實現” 的人。我們幫很多餐廳起步——從找位置開始,找什麼風格的建築,到定製菜單,甚至找洗盤子的阿姨,都是我們來做。當然了,我們也做不同的菜餚!

 

“雙胞胎兄弟在一起工作是什麼感覺?”

 

J:覺得是上天賜予我們的禮物,但同時也是詛咒(笑)。

 

C:我們太親密了,當然也有很多矛盾。但是最重要的是,我們並不覺得自己比對方強,所以工作效率特別高。他從來不需要問我所有的事。

 

J:我們兩個做事好像是同步的。

(註:在採訪裡真的好像是 C 說了上半句,J 就知道下半句該怎麼回答!)

 

C:J 是一個特別愛冒險的人,我就比較保守。我總是想啊想啊,也想不夠。J 更像是一個敢想敢做的人,你需要這種動力去完成一件事,否則你就會一直停滯不前。

 

“你們什麼時候開始做飯的?”

 

J:我們從很小的時候就開始做飯了,可能是七歲?我第一個會做的東西是薄烤餅。我們的媽媽總是在星期天早晨做給我們,有一天她起晚了,我就自己學着做了。

 

J:我們要在香港開一個新的薄餅主題餐廳 “Stack”,也會提供高品質的雞尾酒、啤酒、紅酒、威士忌。

 

C:這個設計最初的想法來自香港的老九龍城,香港城市歷史的典型城區。這個地方會很有意思,你會很喜歡。

 

“香港有很多東西文化的融合,不管是食品,還是傳統。在這裡長大,對你們的烹飪風格和想法有什麼影響?”

 

C:我們一直對製作美食有巨大的熱情,食物讓人連結在一起。我想作為一個中國人,吃飯是我們文化裡非常非常重要的一部分。

 

J:就像一種通用的語言一樣。

 

C:不同的菜色總有相同點,舉個例子,如果我做了一個日本柚子乳酪,沒有吃過日本柚子的人馬上會發現——這是檸檬口感的,是酸的柑橘味,充滿了水果的自然清香。

 

C:旅行是我們非常喜歡做的事,我們喜歡去世界上不同的地方,不同的文化總是因為食物而起源。我們不管在哪裡出差旅行都要去當地的菜市場,並試着把當地的飲食文化和我們自己的烹飪相結合。

 

“當你們旅行的時候,你們最想念的香港美食是什麼?”

 

J:雲吞麵!還有叉燒。當地餐廳裡很便宜的那種,這是香港飲食文化裡最好的部分。

 

C:最傳統的辦法是用碳烤,味道非常豐富,除了香港沒有地方能找得到。

 

J:還有就是來自原產地的配料,中國南方的豬肉有一種很特別的味道,所以你在洛杉磯或者倫敦吃到的叉燒,是和香港的不一樣的。

 

C:我不喜歡 “風土人情” 這個詞,但是當我們去香港當地的菜市場時,這就是最合適的描述。我們知道這裡什麼好,這片土壤給予了人們什麼。

 

“香港的街頭小吃對你們有影響嗎?你們從大排檔的師傅那裡學來了什麼?”

 

C:他們做事情很靈活,用很簡單的材料和設備做出不簡單的美食。我見過他們是怎麼管理工作空間的——怎麼把所有的原材料和調味品放在狹小的廚房裡並進行配菜。他們可以用同樣的一塊牛肉和辣椒做出十種不同的佳餚——這對我的影響很大。

 

“你們怎麼描述自己的烹飪風格?”

 

J:我覺得我們做的就是特別日常的食物,或者你可以叫它們 “爽心食品”。

 

C:我們的風格很樸實,不是很豪華那種。就像米其林餐廳,它們的菜餚既是美食也是一件藝術品,你為此付了很多錢同時也是在享受生活,但是你不能天天都去。我們用很多新科技創造出獨特的滋味,但是並不是烽火硝煙的那種科技,哈哈。你可以隔一段時間去一次那種豪華的餐廳,但是我更願意做那種我們每天都能吃的美食。

 

“你們的廚房有很多新式的烹調工具和技術,但是你們最愛的工具是什麼?”

 

J:筷子!什麼都能做!

 

C:對我來說應該是我的刀吧。我對刀極為有熱情,不對,應該是着迷吧!人們總說對廚師來說,刀就像是他的妻子,沒有別人可以碰。我沒那麼老派,所以我的刀可能更像我的孩子吧。

 

J:他天天都磨刀!

 

C:我可以用一把刀創造很多東西——這是中國的文化,人們經常用一兩把刀就可以做出你想要的所有東西。

 

“你覺得廚藝是一種藝術嗎,還是更像手工?”

 

J:是一種結合吧。一個廚師就像一個手工藝人,做一個碟子就像一個建築師,我總覺得藝術家應該做更多與食物有關的作品。

 

C:你對顏色,結構還有尺寸的感覺,都是烹調裡必不可少的一部分。就像工程學一樣,做飯也要經過很多的計算。正確的量計和分配,才能做好一道菜。尤其是甜品,如果你算錯了,出來的結果就會大不同。

 

“你們都喜歡自己創造東西,像奶油,醬汁這些,但是這些東西很容易就能買到,你們為什麼還要自己做呢?”

 

J:我想這就叫做 “人類的接觸”。

 

C:找到我想要的那種味道太難了,我們可以自己去創造那種特別的味道。我們也想選擇最新鮮的原料,比如番茄醬,我們用最新鮮的番茄,嘗起來就特別不一樣。真的會好很多,相信我。

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